Fibre & Raw Materials
An important element of the value chain
Fibres are an important part of the value chain. Therefore it’s a logical next step for ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme to include fibre production processes and their raw materials. In 2018, the scope of the Programme extended to include the production of Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF). This is the first fibre production area included in the Programme. More materials will be added in the future.
Global viscose production is growing fast, which is why the initial focus is on Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF; including viscose, modal and lyocell). MMCFs are produced from natural feedstock like wood or plants, using hazardous chemicals. Within the production process of viscose and modal, particularly where that’s not an integrated (closed loop) process, chemicals react with the cellulose. This creates by-products, which can be released into the air, water and soil, so we’ve been working to tackle the issue.
An 2018 industry expert report commissioned by ZDHC concluded that restricting chemicals via the ZDHC MRSL approach would not work. The restrictions would halt most MMCF production processes. We would achieve most impact by collaboratively setting guidance around good chemical management and limits for wastewater, sludge, and air emissions during fibre production. At the same time ZDHC can continue researching MMCF production processes using less hazardous chemicals.
In March 2018, ZDHC hosted the first multi-stakeholder MMCF roundtable with representatives from approximately 80% of the global MMCF production. Several ZDHC Signatory Brands attended, including C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Inditex, H&M, M&S, Primark, PVH Corp and F&F, as well as Value Chain Affiliates Lenzing Group, BIRLA CELLULOSE, Sateri, Canopy, Textile Exchange, Bluesign and the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA), the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV) and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles.
The roundtable agreed that ZDHC should lead a collaboration to develop a framework of guidelines for wastewater, sludge, waste and air emissions specific to MMCF production, and expectations for process by-product recovery rates. The guidelines will, for now, focus on MMCF production. Dissolving pulp production processes will be considered at a later stage.
ProgramME
Safer chemicals
A good start transforms the end result
A paradigm shift is happening throughout the value chain. By managing chemical inputs, we
want to ensure safer products, cleaner water and fresher air. That will truly benefit both people and planet. Our solutions help the industry to transform their value chains.
zdhc MRSL
The ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
When it comes to using safer chemical inputs, it's important to know what the options are. That's where the ZDHC MRSL comes in. It supports good chemical management by helping to avoid the use of banned substances during production and manufacturing. This solution facilitates the creation of end products that meet the requirements for cleaner outputs.
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Update Principles
The ZDHC MRSL is regularly updated with new chemicals and processes that should be phased out of the supply chain. We want to ensure those updates are always done in a transparent, consistent way. So we created this guideline to keep everything on track. It explains the process of how we update the ZDHC MRSL.
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Implementation
Collaboration is a key success factor when implementing the ZDHC MRSL. We’ve identified four key stakeholder types that play a key role: Certification Bodies, “Chemical” Formulators, Facilities/Suppliers and Brands/Retailers. By implementing in a collaborative, connected way, these stakeholders can reduce the impact of the implementation efforts. This document provides a standard approach to help achieve this.
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Submission Platform
As part of the open approach we take, our door is always open for new information. The ZDHC MRSL Submission platform is part of this two-way communication. It's a channel to gather new submission to amend a limit, propose a new substance or a process that should be added to the ZDHC MRSL. If we are missing information, we want to know about it. This platform will allow people to submit their suggestions quickly and easily.
Conformance
Conformance Guidance
This document outlines the requirements for indicating ZDHC MRSL conformance. It shows how confident we are that a chemical formulation would always conform. That's useful information for chemical formulators wanting to make safer products. Because ZDHC Accepted Certification Standards are used to indicate conformance, this document also shows those standards how to earn ZDHC acceptance.
Levels
Conformance Levels
Level 3
Requires all the elements of MRSL Conformance Level 2 and a site visit to chemical supplier to evaluate product stewardship.
Level 0
Level 1
Level 2
Level 3
Level 3
A visit to a chemical supplier site
Level 2
Product Steward
Level 1
Conducting document reviews or tests
Level 0
A supplier declaration
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Accepted Conformance Indicators
Rather than creating our own certification standard, it makes more sense to leverage those already available in the market. We do that by awarding ZDHC Accepted Status. To earn acceptance, a standard will be thoroughly assessed. We will see how well it indicates a formulation's conformance to the ZDHC MRSL. Those listed below have earned ZDHC Acceptance.
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Become a ZDHC Accepted Certification Standard or Testing Lab.
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Gateway
Chemical Module
This online platform helps us to scale our efforts. We created the world's first database of safer chemistry for the entire value chain. This digital tool simplifies the search for alternatives. It provides an easy entryway to register and browse safer chemistry solutions. The Gateway builds trust and reduces the administrative burden throughout the value chain.
A Solution for the Entire Industry
The ZDHC Gateway - Chemical Module is a web-based solution that supports the entire value chain. This advanced search engine enables registering and finding chemical formulations that comply with the ZDHC MRSL. It simplifies the search for more sustainable chemicals and best practices.
Formulators
Chemical formulators that join the ZDHC Gateway play a leading role in advancing the industry towards safer chemical management. When their product conforms to the ZDHC MRSL, they can upload it and show its performance. This platform lets formulators classify their chemical products, while virtual catalogues help them reach out to customers.
ZDHC ChemCheck Report
Formulators can generate a ZDHC ChemCheck Report for their published products on the ZDHC Gateway - Chemical Module. They can use it to assure customers that their chemical products meet ZDHC MRSL requirements. This report can be downloaded, printed or shared electronically via PDF. More info.
Suppliers
Suppliers can browse through a central library of chemical formulations that conform to the ZDHC MRSL. For various chemical products, ZDHC MRSL Conformance Levels and details are available. Suppliers can invite their chemical formulators to register more products on the ZDHC Gateway, which also supports continuous improvement of the ZDHC Gateway chemical inventory.
ZDHC InCheck
This report shows how much a chemical inventory conforms to the requirements of the ZDHC MRSL. A comprehensive overview of a supplier’s chemical inventory and its overall conformance is produced, all in an easy-to-read report. ZDHC InCheck provides clear, understandable results and helpful guidance to increase the use of safer chemistry. More info.
Brands
By acting as a library for safer, innovative chemical alternatives, the Gateway increases transparency, while supporting more sustainable procurement decisions. Brands can use the platform to educate their suppliers on the more sustainable procurement options. It also helps in asking suppliers to raise the bar on chemical management.
Increased Efficiencies
The Gateway removes the burden of maintaining positive lists and highlighting preferred chemistry to multiple suppliers. Brands can simply mark their preferences in one place, where suppliers can then find them. In addition, brands can see verified wastewater results via ClearStream Reports. These are based on tests conducted by ZDHC Accepted Laboratories, in accordance with the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines.