Roadmap To Zero

An important element of the value chain

Fibres are an important part of the value chain. Therefore it’s a logical next step for ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme to include fibre production processes and their raw materials. In 2018, the scope of the Programme extended to include the production of Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF). This is the first fibre production area included in the Programme. More materials will be added in the future.

Global viscose production is growing fast, which is why the initial focus is on Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF; including viscose, modal and lyocell). MMCFs are produced from natural feedstock like wood or plants, using hazardous chemicals. Within the production process of viscose and modal, particularly where that’s not an integrated (closed loop) process, chemicals react with the cellulose. This creates by-products, which can be released into the air, water and soil, so we’ve been working to tackle the issue.

An 2018 industry expert report commissioned by ZDHC concluded that restricting chemicals via the ZDHC MRSL approach would not work. The restrictions would halt most MMCF production processes. We would achieve most impact by collaboratively setting guidance around good chemical management and limits for wastewater, sludge, and air emissions during fibre production. At the same time ZDHC can continue researching MMCF production processes using less hazardous chemicals.

In March 2018, ZDHC hosted the first multi-stakeholder MMCF roundtable with representatives from approximately 80% of the global MMCF production. Several ZDHC Signatory Brands attended, including C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Inditex, H&M, M&S, Primark, PVH Corp and F&F, as well as Value Chain Affiliates Lenzing Group, BIRLA CELLULOSE, Sateri, Canopy, Textile Exchange, Bluesign and the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA), the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV) and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles.

The roundtable agreed that ZDHC should lead a collaboration to develop a framework of guidelines for wastewater, sludge, waste and air emissions specific to MMCF production, and expectations for process by-product recovery rates. The guidelines will, for now, focus on MMCF production. Dissolving pulp production processes will be considered at a later stage.

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Supporting sound chemical management

ZDHC CMS Framework‍

A sound chemical management system (CMS) supports worker safety and the reduction of environmental impacts within the community and the broader environment. The ZDHC CMS Framework, as part of a two-part process, provides the textile, apparel, and footwear industries with a united base to work from. It can be incorporated in a wider management system, such as an Environmental Management System (EMS).

The ZDHC CMS Framework is a high-level overview of requirements of a CMS. The scope of implementation, however, needs to be defined by each organisation and may range from only the organisation’s specific operating unit(s) to all parts of its value chain. The ZDHC CMS Framework can be adopted by brands, suppliers and facilities with the support of the Chemical Industry, Service Providers, and other supply chain partners.

Please note: The ZDHC CMS Framework is complementary to any regulatory, operational, or product requirements and shall be used to measure the success of an organisation’s own chemical management system.

ZDHC CMS Technical Industry Guide (coming soon)

The other part of the ZDHC Chemical Management System is the ZDHC CMS Technical Industry Guide, which will cover the implementation of a CMS in the supply chain. Whilst this document is still under development the Chemical Management Systems Guidance Manual can be used as a reference for information for technical facility staff and verifiers.

A Chemical Inventory template

A Chemical Inventory list (CIL) is a list of all chemical formulations kept or used in a facility. An organisation should have a robust process for creating and updating the CIL. We provide a template to help organisations in creating this valuable resource.

Having a well-run CIL assists with purchasing decisions. It also promotes responsible usage, pollution prevention, traceability and chemical handling decisions. A CIL also helps to control future disposal costs. As an example, tracking chemical storage may indicate excess chemicals are available in another facility, thus preventing unnecessary purchases.

The content of Chemical Inventory should include; the chemical commercial name, SDS information, identification numbers (CAS no.) of hazardous substances present, hazard information of the chemical formulation, conformance of the chemical formulations to requirements, amount of storage or consumption, and storage location.

This information, amongst others, helps an organisation to select the right PPE for chemical use and identify the correct storage conditions. If chemical information is missing, there must be a corrective action plan to obtain this data from chemical suppliers.

The Chemical Inventory can be compiled by completing the following actions: a) stock take (items and quantities held in storage), b) delivery information (items and quantities delivered) and c) use information (items and quantities used).

The Chemical Inventory list should be regularly updated and its information maintained for purpose. It is recommended to follow, at a minimum, the following frequency: a) Stock take, annually and b) delivery c) usage information, monthly.

The CIL should be maintained by a responsible person whenever chemicals are purchased, stored or used. The revision date should be clearly marked in the inventory. It is recommended to highlight changes to the CIL content. The template CIL offers guidance to meet all of the above requirements.

Smarter Processes

Chemical Management System

Fibre & Raw Materials

ZDHC MMCF Guidelines

Chemical
Inventory List

A Common Approach