Case Study with KISCO
As the textile industry continues to strengthen its approach to chemical management, attention is increasingly turning towards substances that may not yet be fully restricted, but are already recognised as potential risks.
Para-chloroaniline (PCA) is one such substance.
While regulatory frameworks and Restricted Substance Lists (RSLs) focus on limiting the presence of hazardous substances in finished products, the industry is now facing a broader challenge: how to address chemicals of concern proactively, before they become subject to tighter regulation.
This case study outlines how KISCO has approached this challenge by developing dye chemistry that eliminates PCA at the source, supporting safer, more consistent and more sustainable textile production.
PCA is an aromatic amine used in certain chemical synthesis routes. Although not always directly restricted in its use as an intermediate, it falls within a class of substances that regulators and brands monitor closely due to their toxicological profile.
In practice, PCA may be present as a residual substance in dyes, depending on the synthesis route and purification processes used.
Historically, compliance with RSL requirements has often been achieved at the level of the finished garment. Where trace substances are present, additional washing and rinsing steps during textile processing can reduce concentrations to below regulatory thresholds.
While effective under controlled conditions, this approach presents several challenges:
As chemical management expectations evolve, this model is increasingly being reconsidered.
In line with ZDHC principles and broader industry trends, there is growing recognition that chemical risk should be addressed earlier in the value chain.
Rather than relying on downstream removal, a more robust approach is to eliminate substances of concern during the design and manufacture of chemical products.
For PCA, this means developing dye synthesis routes that ensure it is not present as a residual substance in the final dye.
This approach offers clear benefits:
KISCO applied this approach through the development of its Nature and NaturePlus dye ranges.
The initial phase of this work focused on identifying PCA as an area of concern within dye chemistry and exploring alternative synthesis approaches.
As part of this process, KISCO collaborated with a major global fashion retailer, HUGO BOSS, a ZDHC Signatory Brand, to ensure that new dye systems would meet both chemical safety expectations and performance requirements. This included achieving targeted standards for colour, fastness and overall dyeing performance.
HUGO BOSS initiated this work to proactively reduce environmental impact by addressing substances of concern at source rather than relying on downstream removal. This initiative builds on their longstanding commitment to full product compliance and reflects their ambition to go beyond regulatory requirements by continuously improving chemical safety. By focusing on innovation at the level of dyestuff formulation, HUGO BOSS actively supports the transition towards more responsible and future-oriented chemistry. Rather than depending solely on downstream mitigation measures, this approach strengthens consistency across manufacturing environments and contributes to more robust environmental protection globally. In doing so, it supports the reduction of potential emissions, enhances safety for workers and ecosystems, and aligns with industry efforts to prioritise preventive chemical management and safer chemistry.
Development and validation were carried out in partnership with manufacturing operations in Peru, where bulk trials were conducted to assess performance under real production conditions.
These trials generated valuable data on:
Based on the success of these initial trials, the approach has since been expanded and is now being applied across additional regions and supply chains.
The outcome of this work is a portfolio of dyes designed to address PCA at the source.
This approach reflects a broader shift towards integrating chemical safety and operational performance into a single solution.
As regulatory frameworks continue to evolve and brands strengthen their chemical management policies, substances like PCA are likely to remain under scrutiny.
Approaches that rely on downstream control may become increasingly difficult to manage, particularly as expectations around transparency, consistency and environmental performance continue to rise.
By contrast, eliminating substances of concern at the design stage provides a more future-ready solution.
This case study demonstrates how collaboration across the value chain, from chemical suppliers to brands and manufacturing partners, can support the transition towards safer and more sustainable textile chemistry.
The textile industry is moving beyond compliance as an endpoint and towards a more proactive model of chemical management.
Addressing emerging risks such as PCA requires not only meeting current requirements, but also anticipating future expectations.
Designing dyes that eliminate substances of concern at the source represents an important step in this direction, supporting both regulatory readiness and long-term sustainability goals.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
About KISCO
The Kyung-In Synthetic Company (KISCO) develops and manufactures chemicals.
For over 50 years, the KISCO group of companies has been producing dyes, inks, fine chemicals and materials for textiles, food, agriculture and electronics. Their custom synthesis capabilities range from a dedicated research team in Seoul through to large-scale production facilities in 11 plants across Korea and one in Turkey. Their textile dyes are the cornerstone of the business and are known for delivering high quality, Right-First-Time performance while also meeting the highest sustainability standards.
Based in Korea, our business is global. KISCO - creating colours and chemical solutions.
Discover more posts
Read all →