Shaping the Future of Sustainable Chemical Management in MMCF Production

The man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) industry has advanced significantly over the past decade, representing the third biggest fibre production sector after polyester and cotton. Once viewed mainly as a renewable alternative to synthetics, MMCF is now judged by its environmental impact through sustainable chemical management across all production stages, and its sourcing practices to avoid deforestation. The message from the community is clear: better fibres begin with better chemistry.

With new evidence from the ZDHC Quantis Report, Protecting Supply Chains and Natural Capital: The Power of Safer Chemistry, and the upcoming release of the MMCF Guidelines V3.0, the industry now has both the science and the tools to accelerate progress.
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Why chemistry is the foundation of MMCF sustainability

Chemistry highly determines the footprint of MMCF fibres long before garments reach consumers. MMCF production processes require intensive chemical input, including hazardous chemicals such as carbon disulfide (CS₂), to transform cellulose into fibre. These, as well as bleaching agents and solvents used in this industry, pose a risk to workers, local communities and ecosystems if not managed properly.

Sustainable chemical management poses big challenges for the MMCF industry but also great opportunities to transform it into a safer and more circular one through higher rates of chemical recovery and responsible wastewater management, among other impactful measures. 

This shows that chemical management is not just a compliance issue — it is one of the most powerful levers for reducing environmental and social impact in MMCF production.

“Since the release of ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V1.0 in April
2020 and its implementation beginning in 2023 through
the ZDHC MMCF Module, MMCF manufacturers have demonstrated a strong commitment to improving their
chemical management practices and becoming more responsible towards the environment. This journey of continuous improvement is driven by shared responsibility
— where every actor, from forestry and dissolved pulp
producers to MMCF manufacturers, textile suppliers and brands works together to transform the value chain towards true sustainability and circularity”

– Smita Bait, Fibres and Materials Senior Technical Manager, ZDHC

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The advancements shaping MMCF chemical management

1. Process integration
   Closed-loop chemical recovery, monitoring of critical control points, and preventive maintenance are elevated as core requirements, not optional improvements.
   
   
2. Shared accountability
   Dissolving pulp suppliers and fibre producers are all explicitly included in clearer responsibility frameworks.
   
   
3. Standardised measurement
   Verification methods and performance levels create comparable outcomes across regions and facilities — crucial for scaling adoption.
   
   
4. Digital transparency
   Data-driven traceability, via the ZDHC Gateway and machine-readable documentation, simplifies reporting and accelerates brand approval.

5. Alignment and collaboration
   Collaboration with like-minded organisations allows for integration of guidelines in other relevant standards, avoiding duplication of efforts.
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The bigger picture: industry transformation

The ZDHC Impact Report highlights how sustainable chemical management links directly to broader goals: water stewardship, biodiversity protection, circularity, and climate action.

These are no longer parallel agendas. By managing chemistry upstream, the MMCF industry is making measurable progress on all of them at once.

Both sustainable chemical management and the prevention of deforestation are essential to transforming the MMCF industry into a more responsible and ethical sector. To support this transition, ZDHC has been partnering with Canopy—a like-minded organisation dedicated to eliminating the use of ancient and endangered forests, since 2021. Through this collaboration, chemical management criteria have been integrated into Canopy’s public Hot Button Report, a transparency tool that highlights environmental performance and risks among MMCF producers.

“Sustainable chemical management remains one of the key challenges in the MMCF industry, but it also represents a powerful opportunity for innovation and circularity. The
ZDHC MMCF and Dissolved Pulp Guidelines aim to support
and accelerate the adoption of innovative, circular practices
in MMCF production. Over 70% of the MMCF industry,
brands and like-minded organisations have now engaged with ZDHC in the collaborative approach to set a benchmark for chemically responsible and transparent fibre manufacturing.” 

– Matilde Orduz Trujillo, Implementation Associate, ZDHC

For example:

26 facilities across 6 countries, representing more than 70% of the MMCF global production, implemented the ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V2.2 in 2024 and were assessed on the ZDHC MMCF Module in 2025
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What this means for the value chain

• Brands gain confidence and transparency in sourcing, supported by verified environmental data. 

• Dissolved Pulp Suppliers strengthen their role as responsible upstream partners by ensuring consistent and sustainably sourced feedstock aligned with ZDHC requirements.
  
  
• MMCF Producers enhance operational performance through improved chemical recovery, reduced emissions, and measurable progress toward sustainable and responsible fibre manufacturing.
  
  

The path ahead

The MMCF sector has reached a moment where progress is visible, measurable and scalable. With science-based evidence from Quantis and the systemic approach of the upcoming MMCF Guidelines V3.0 and complementary Dissolved Pulp Guidelines V1.0 (published in October 2024), the industry can move decisively from promises to performance.

Stronger chemistry makes stronger fibres. And stronger fibres will define the future of sustainable fashion.